Effective Ways to Treat for Termites

Termites can turn solid wood into paper-thin shells before you even notice. If you’ve seen mud tubes, blistered paint, hollow-sounding wood, or discarded wings, it’s time to act. In this guide, you’ll learn practical, proven ways to treat for termites, when DIY makes sense, when to call a pro, and how to prevent future infestations. By the end, you’ll know which methods work, what each costs in effort and time, and how to protect your home for the long haul.

Key takeaways

• Confirm the termite type first; treatments differ for subterranean vs. drywood termites.
• Combine fast knockdown methods with long-term protection.
• Prevention (moisture control, wood-to-soil fixes) reduces reinfestation risk.
• Know when to treat for termites yourself and when to hire professionals.

Step 1: Identify the termite and the extent of damage

Before you treat for termites, figure out what you’re dealing with.

• Subterranean termites: Build mud tubes, nest in soil, need moisture. Most common in the U.S. They often require soil treatments or bait systems.
• Drywood termites: Live inside dry wood, no mud tubes. Often treated with targeted wood injections or whole-structure fumigation for widespread infestations.
• Dampwood termites: Prefer very moist wood; fixing moisture problems is essential.

How to check:

• Probe suspicious wood with a screwdriver; it may sound hollow or break easily.
• Look for pencil-width mud tubes along foundations.
• Inspect attic framing, crawlspaces, and door/window frames.

If structural damage is extensive or you find activity in multiple areas, plan to treat for termites with professional-grade methods and consider structural evaluation.

DIY methods that work for small, localized issues

1) Borate wood treatments (borax/boric acid formulations)

• Best for: Preventive treatments on exposed framing, or spot-treating drywood activity in accessible wood.
• How it works: Borates penetrate wood fibers and disrupt termite digestion.
• How to apply: Brush or spray onto bare wood (paint-free) following label rates; drill-and-inject for localized galleries.
• Pros: Low odor, long-lasting protection on treated surfaces.
• Cons: Limited penetration on painted or sealed wood; not a stand-alone fix for subterranean colonies in soil.

Tip: After repairs or during renovations, pre-treat framing with a borate solution to make future attempts to treat termites simpler and more effective.

2) Foam and dust injections for galleries

• Best for: Drywood termites in trim, furniture, or localized wall voids.
• How it works: Insecticidal foams expand to fill voids; dusts reach deep channels.
• How to apply: Drill small holes into suspected galleries and inject per label directions.
• Pros: Precise; minimal disruption.
• Cons: Easy to miss hidden galleries; may require follow-up inspections.

3) Nematodes (biological control, limited use)

• Best for: Certain garden or landscape scenarios; less common indoors.
• How it works: Beneficial nematodes parasitize termites.
• Pros: Eco-friendly.
• Cons: Sensitive to temperature and moisture; inconsistent results in structures.

Use DIY only when you can confirm the infestation is small and accessible. If you find mud tubes leading into the home or multiple rooms show activity, it’s beyond DIY.

Professional-grade treatments for lasting control

4) Liquid soil treatments (termite barriers)

• Best for: Subterranean termites.
• How it works: Pros trench around the foundation and, if needed, drill through slabs to apply termiticides that bind to soil. Termites contact the treated soil and transfer the active ingredient within the colony.
• Pros: Fast reduction in activity; long residual protection around the structure.
• Cons: Requires specialized equipment and knowledge to ensure continuous coverage.

When to choose: If you have active mud tubes, moisture near the foundation, or previous history of subterranean termites, treating the soil barrier is one of the most reliable ways to treat termites.

5) Bait systems (colony elimination)

• Best for: Long-term control of subterranean termites with less chemical volume.
• How it works: Stations with cellulose attract termites; once feeding is confirmed, a slow-acting IGR (insect growth regulator) is introduced. Termites share the bait, suppressing the colony over time.
• Pros: Minimal intrusion, great for properties where trenching is difficult; continuous monitoring.
• Cons: Slower than liquid treatments; requires ongoing service visits.

Pro tip: Many homeowners combine a liquid perimeter treatment to knock down activity quickly, then keep a bait system in place to monitor and prevent future infestations.

6) Structural fumigation (whole-home, for widespread drywood)

• Best for: Extensive drywood infestations across multiple, inaccessible areas.
• How it works: The structure is tented and fumigated, reaching termites hidden deep in wood.
• Pros: Reaches everywhere in the structure.
• Cons: Requires vacating the home; no residual protection after treatment.

Because fumigation doesn’t leave a long-lasting barrier, follow with preventive steps and regular inspections to avoid having to treat for termites again.

Prevention: Fix conditions that attract termites

You can cut future risk by removing what termites want most: wood and moisture.

• Eliminate wood-to-soil contact: Use concrete or steel separators for deck posts and steps. Keep siding at least 6 inches above soil.
• Improve drainage: Extend downspouts 4–6 feet from the foundation. Regrade soil to slope away from the house. Fix leaking spigots and AC condensate lines.
• Reduce moisture indoors: Vent crawlspaces, add vapor barriers, and keep humidity in check.
• Store firewood properly: Stack at least 20 feet from the home and off the ground.
• Seal entry points: Caulk gaps around utility lines and foundation cracks.
• Schedule annual inspections: Catch issues early and treat for termites before colonies expand.

Cost, timing, and expectations

• DIY spot treatments: Low cost; suitable for small drywood pockets. Expect to monitor and retreat if needed.
• Professional liquid treatments: Mid to high cost depending on home size and slab drilling needs. Often provides multi-year protection.
• Bait systems: Service-based pricing with ongoing monitoring; slower but excellent for long-term management.
• Fumigation: Higher upfront cost; best for widespread drywood infestations.

Set realistic expectations: Subterranean colonies can number in the hundreds of thousands. Even effective methods may take weeks to show full results. Combine immediate control with prevention to avoid repeat efforts to treat for termites.

Call Brooks Pest Solutions immediately

• You see mud tubes in multiple locations or inside the home.
• Doors or windows stick and you find hollow-sounding framing.
• There’s evidence in several rooms or floors.
• You plan renovations and want pre-treatment to protect new wood.
• You’ve tried DIY but still see fresh frass (termite pellets), new wings, or active tubes.

Action plan checklist

1) Confirm termite type and map activity areas.

2) For small, localized drywood issues, consider foam or borate injections.

3) For subterranean activity, choose a perimeter liquid treatment or bait system—or both.

4) Fix moisture and wood-to-soil issues to prevent reinfestation.

5) Schedule follow-up inspections every 6–12 months.

Ready to protect your home?Don’t wait for more damage. Get a thorough inspection and a custom plan to treat for termites fast and keep them out. Contact our licensed pest control team today for a free inspection and same-week service. Call now or book online to secure your home and stop termites in their tracks.